The Upper Main Cliffs in Glass House Mountains, specifically known as the Upper Main Cliff, is a popular rock climbing destination in Australia. Located on the southern side of Mt Ngungun, just below the summit, this climbing spot offers a range of traditional climbing routes for climbers of all levels.
Access to the Upper Main Cliffs is relatively easy since the walking trail has been upgraded. Climbers can follow the path past the Cave and take the relatively defined trail leading off at the first switchback after the cave. The cliff is also visible from this point, making it easy to navigate towards it. Another option is to descend from Mt Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall through a 50m rappel from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite, which also has two intermediate rappel stations if needed.
The main cliff is impressive, featuring vertical, chimney, dihedral, and face climbing routes. It receives morning sun from the south-southeast and enjoys all-day sun during the summer. Climbers should be aware of access issues inherited from Mt Ngungun and are advised to stay on the tracks and avoid using crags as restrooms.
The Upper Main Cliff is mostly trad climbing, with a total of 47 routes to choose from. The routes are listed from right to left along the cliff. Climbers can check the local guidebooks and discuss the area on the climbers' forum to plan their trips effectively. The cliff offers routes of varying grades, ranging from 5 to 23, providing options for beginners and experienced climbers alike.
Ethics at the Glass House Mountains dictate that modern climbers establishing new routes should ensure they do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago. Retro-bolting of existing routes is considered unacceptable, and new routes should make use of traditional protection where available.
Climbers planning their trip to the Upper Main Cliffs can check the weather conditions, find nearby accommodation, and access guidebooks through reliable sources. The cliffs offer a great opportunity for climbers to challenge themselves, enjoy the scenic views of the Glass House Mountains, and be part of a vibrant rock climbing community.