Yesnaby Castle is a renowned rock climbing destination located just south of the Brough of Bigging in Yesnaby, on the picturesque west coast of Orkney mainland in Scotland. This remarkable stack gained fame through the first ascent by Joe Brown and his climbing partners in 1967. Alongside the Old Man of Hoy, Yesnaby Castle is one of the only two stacks in Orkney that attract regular visits from climbers.
For easy access to Yesnaby Castle, visitors can park their vehicles at the roadend car park in Yesnaby, approximately one kilometre north of the stack. Upon reaching the stack, climbers will need to abseil down the surrounding cliffs to reach the base. It should be noted that reliable anchor points on the cliff tops are limited, but previous climbing parties have used fence posts and small stone cairns in the field as anchors. For those who prefer a more sheltered approach, walking past the stack heading south for about 100 metres will lead to a wee platform just below the top of the cliff, which offers numerous good anchor points and a short abseil to a spacious sea level platform.
From here, climbers can swim closer to the stack and explore the routes on this stack and the surrounding cliffs.
The Original Route, located on the south face of Yesnaby Castle, begins to the right of a cave. Climbing up onto a good ledge, climbers will follow a series of horizontal breaks directly up to an ancient piton, continuing past it to a second piton. After traversing left, the crux of the route, climbers will reach the bottom of a prominent left trending crack, which leads to the summit. It is important to exercise caution on the loose rock in the last few metres of this 30-metre route.
The Original Route is classified as E1 5B.
A slightly more strenuous option is the direct finish to the Original Route, where climbers continue upward from the second piton on good holds until reaching the top. This route also presents loose rock towards the end and spans 25 metres, with a difficulty rating of E2 5B. Another variation of the Original Route is named Meditation, which follows the same start and finish. Climbers can climb onto the ledge at the right of the cave and then proceed diagonally left to the bottom of the left trending crack at the top left of this face.
Meditation is a 25-metre route rated E2 5C.
For climbers seeking a different experience, Yesnaby Castle also offers routes on its landward face. The ascent of this face begins by belaying at the extreme right of the south face and climbing the arete to reach the large ledge at approximately a quarter of the height. Climbers then continue up the blunt corner between the south and landward faces until reaching a small stance on a loose block at the bottom of the leaning head wall. By clipping the peg and making a few challenging moves, climbers can access a good ledge just below the summit.
The final section of this route involves carefully navigating through loose rock to reach the top. The landward face route is described as a considerably more strenuous outing.
On the seaward face of Yesnaby Castle, climbers will encounter a significantly more demanding climb. This route follows an obvious hand and finger crack on the leaning face, providing an awe-inspiring experience. Known as “Yes, Please,” this 25-metre route is classified as E3 6A.
To safely descend from Yesnaby Castle, it is recommended to abseil down the landward face. Climbers can use the nose of rock overhanging the seaward face as anchors and run their abseil tat across the top of the stack to the top of the landward face. Another option for descent is to visit the Stack o' Roo.
Apart from Yesnaby Castle, the surrounding area known as the Castle Area also offers exciting climbing opportunities. Moss Ghyll is one such climbing location in this area. Routes in the Moss Ghyll area include Bail Out Groove (VS 4b), Home Alone (severe), Watchers Lunge (VS 4b), and Cut and Thrust (VS 4b), each providing unique challenges and breathtaking views.
Yesnaby Castle sea stack in Stromness, Orkney, is an exceptional rock climbing destination that beckons climbers from around the world. With its rich climbing history and diverse range of routes, it offers an exhilarating experience amidst stunning natural surroundings.
