Maungarei Springs Crags, also known as Stonefields or Mt Wellington Quarry, is a popular rock climbing destination in Auckland, New Zealand. Located beside a small lake in the Maungarei Springs Wetland reserve, this urban basalt quarry offers a mix of sport and trad routes.
Originally developed as dry-tooling routes, all climbs at Maungarei Springs have been freed at this point. The crag is managed for recreational climbing in the reserve by the New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) and Auckland Climbers' Association Trust (ACAT).
When visiting Maungarei Springs, climbers are required to be sensible, respectable, and safe. Wearing a helmet is strongly recommended, whether climbing, belaying, or just watching, as there may be falling rocks and hardware. It is important to be considerate of other park users and residents in the area. Pet dogs are not allowed in the wetlands as per council rules.
Parking should be done considerately to maximise the number of cars parked in the marked carparks on Barbarich Dr or Tephra Blvd. Climbers can access the climbs by walking a short distance from the parking area. There is a toilet and drinking fountain in the reserve by Tephra Blvd for convenience.
All climbs at Maungarei Springs are on reserve land, specifically in the Maungarei Springs Wetland, classified as an Open Space Informal Recreation Zone in the Auckland Unitary Plan. The original route developers have collaborated with NZAC & ACAT to manage the crag for recreational climbing purposes.
In terms of approach, climbers can start by walking around behind the pumphouse to reach the first few routes. To access the rest of the climbs, they can continue down beside the cliff to the back of the lake. It is important to watch out for broken bottles during the rocky descent.
Maungarei Springs Crags have a mix of sport, mixed, and trad routes. While the area was originally developed for dry tooling, all routes have now been free climbed. Climbers are advised not to retro bolt trad climbs without first ascent confirmation.
The history of development at Maungarei Springs dates back to 2009 when a few routes were established. However, the area remained relatively inactive until early 2016 when significant cleaning and bolting work was done. The closure of Auckland Grammar School (AGS) further accelerated development at the crag.
Maungarei Springs Crags offer a unique and diverse climbing experience in the heart of Auckland. With its beautiful natural surroundings and a wide range of climbing routes, it is a popular destination for both local climbers and visitors alike.